Four leather hides side by side: smooth black lambskin, pebbled cognac goatskin, rugged dark brown buffalo and tan full-grain cowhide

The House

Leather Guide

The four leathers we work with, how they differ, and how to choose the right one for you.

Our materials

Every leather has a character of its own.

Weight, grain, softness and the way a hide ages all shape how a piece looks and feels. These are the leathers you will find across the Cuirden collection.

The leathers

Four leathers

  • 01Sheepskin & LambskinThe lightest and softest of our leathers, with a smooth, buttery hand and a natural drape. Lambskin is the finer, younger version.Best for: blazers, fitted jackets, trousers
  • 02GoatskinA fine, pebbled grain and remarkable strength for its weight. Light, supple and very hard-wearing, with a quiet natural texture.Best for: jackets, gloves, small goods
  • 03BuffaloDense and rugged with a bold, open grain. Heavier and more robust, it builds a strong character with wear.Best for: racers, bombers, workwear jackets
  • 04CowhideFull-bodied and structured. It holds its shape, resists abrasion and develops a rich patina over the years.Best for: outerwear, bags, belts
Sunlit leather atelier with a rail of black, brown, cognac and tan leather jackets and rolled hides on an oak cutting table

Grain and finish

Reading the surface.

Full-grain keeps the complete outer surface of the hide, with its natural pores and marks. It is the strongest and ages most beautifully.

Top-grain is lightly sanded for a more even surface. It is smooth and consistent, and slightly softer to the touch.

Nappa describes very soft, smooth, finely finished leather, usually lambskin or sheepskin.

Suede and nubuck are buffed to a velvety nap: suede on the inner side of the hide, nubuck on the outer grain.

Natural marks are part of the material

Small scars, veins, wrinkles and slight variations in colour are the signature of genuine leather. We cut around major marks, but we never sand away a hide’s character entirely. No two Cuirden pieces are exactly alike.

From the Journal

Learn more about leather.

Deeper guides to leather types, grain, tanning and patina.